Cutter/Draper Examples of Work
Hamlet
Costume Design: Lauren Roarke
Illinois Shakespeare Festival - 2016
Men's Cutter Draper
Several pieces were patterned and constructed for this production using unique materials of the designer's choice such as neoprene and laser cut leathers backed with stretch netting in addition to plastic embossed leather (see page header).
Hamlet:
Doublet fashioned in neoprene and laser cut leather on net backing with laced sleeves. Draped, patterned with mock up and cutting of fashion fabrics to final fitting prior to publicity photos.
Ghost:
Patterning, cutting, and fabrication of pleated cape attached to stock gorget, knitted chainmail body and sleeve pieces. Cape was pre-painted to represent cracking prior to piece assembly.
King:
Doublet patterning and cutting from draped form utilized muslin mock-up for fitting, flat lining of fashion fabric, and final assembly/tailoring of piece.
Royal Cape flat patterned to muslin mock-up for fitting. Final piece cut, fit and tailored using a bubbled press-smocked taffeta. Required box pleating and internal twill tape stay lines to retain specific amount of fullness countering bubbled smocking of fabric.
Polonius:
Long jerkin flat patterned with draped pieced collar cut for mock-up with piping to check fit and stand. Final pieced collar made of leather embossed with plastic drops.
Horatio and Laertes: Required similar flat pattern and draping process and assembly.
Men's Cutter Draper
Several pieces were patterned and constructed for this production using unique materials of the designer's choice such as neoprene and laser cut leathers backed with stretch netting in addition to plastic embossed leather (see page header).
Hamlet:
Doublet fashioned in neoprene and laser cut leather on net backing with laced sleeves. Draped, patterned with mock up and cutting of fashion fabrics to final fitting prior to publicity photos.
Ghost:
Patterning, cutting, and fabrication of pleated cape attached to stock gorget, knitted chainmail body and sleeve pieces. Cape was pre-painted to represent cracking prior to piece assembly.
King:
Doublet patterning and cutting from draped form utilized muslin mock-up for fitting, flat lining of fashion fabric, and final assembly/tailoring of piece.
Royal Cape flat patterned to muslin mock-up for fitting. Final piece cut, fit and tailored using a bubbled press-smocked taffeta. Required box pleating and internal twill tape stay lines to retain specific amount of fullness countering bubbled smocking of fabric.
Polonius:
Long jerkin flat patterned with draped pieced collar cut for mock-up with piping to check fit and stand. Final pieced collar made of leather embossed with plastic drops.
Horatio and Laertes: Required similar flat pattern and draping process and assembly.
Peter & The Starcatcher
Costume Design: Lauren M. Lowell
Illinois Shakespeare Festival - 2016
Men's Cutter Draper
Lord Aster & Captain Hook:
Two identical coats were required for separate Equity actors. I used a flat pattern method to size up a scaled period pattern, cut and fitted assembled mock-up. Instructions were given to First Hand and Stitchers through process. Collar was quilt stitched in rows to allow it to stand with soft rigidity.Specific pattern was matched to pattern pieces for symmetrical placement. Tailor's tacking and prick stitch used to secure layers of coat. Also patterned, fit and instructed assembly of brocade vest with applique work.
Pirates: Fit mostly pulled pieces, providing notes to first hand for stitcher completion.
Men's Cutter Draper
Lord Aster & Captain Hook:
Two identical coats were required for separate Equity actors. I used a flat pattern method to size up a scaled period pattern, cut and fitted assembled mock-up. Instructions were given to First Hand and Stitchers through process. Collar was quilt stitched in rows to allow it to stand with soft rigidity.Specific pattern was matched to pattern pieces for symmetrical placement. Tailor's tacking and prick stitch used to secure layers of coat. Also patterned, fit and instructed assembly of brocade vest with applique work.
Pirates: Fit mostly pulled pieces, providing notes to first hand for stitcher completion.
Twelfth Night
Costume Design: Nicholas Hartmann
Illinois Shakespeare Festival - 2016
Men's Cutter Draper
Duke Orsino:
Lounging Robe: Patterning, cutting, mock up, fitting, build and finishing detail of silk brocade robe.
Malvolio:
Patterning, cutting, mock up, fitting, build and finishing detail of vest, breeches and duplicate set to be distressed.
Olivia and Sebastian: Patterning, cutting, mock up, fitting, build and finishing detail of silk brocade waistcoats
Sebastian: Cutting, mock up, fitting, build and finishing detail of pleather sea coat
Rebuild and men's tailoring of multiple pieces including Viola and Sebastian's Suits, Duke's uniform, Sir Toby, Sir Andrew and rest of historically male costume pieces.
Men's Cutter Draper
Duke Orsino:
Lounging Robe: Patterning, cutting, mock up, fitting, build and finishing detail of silk brocade robe.
Malvolio:
Patterning, cutting, mock up, fitting, build and finishing detail of vest, breeches and duplicate set to be distressed.
Olivia and Sebastian: Patterning, cutting, mock up, fitting, build and finishing detail of silk brocade waistcoats
Sebastian: Cutting, mock up, fitting, build and finishing detail of pleather sea coat
Rebuild and men's tailoring of multiple pieces including Viola and Sebastian's Suits, Duke's uniform, Sir Toby, Sir Andrew and rest of historically male costume pieces.